The Truth About Cats

Summary


[John Gonzalez] runs the floor while [Peter Woolsey] flits about in the open kitchen, a Johnson & Wales and Le Cordon Bleu grad peering through black-framed glasses. Woolsey studied pastry in Paris, where he met his wife Peggy. Upon returning to Philly, he added La Mas Perrier, Striped Bass and Washington Square to his resume. Though the problems with Starr's star-crossed parksider could fill an encyclopedia, Woolsey's desserts were never one of them.

From the vivid cassis and spiced pear sorbets to the complimentary house-made chocolates easing the check's sticker shock, sweets are still Woolsey's forte, while the savory side of Minette's menu suffers some execution woes.

Meats are sourced from D'Artagnan, and Woolsey shines brightest when cooking them. Whether it's the crisp-skinned duck a l'orange with sunchokes and broccoli; the gloriously charred, hand-butchered, grass-fed rib eye; or the falling-apart lamb shank braised for three hours in the Gascony style with carrots, turnips, tomatoes, anchovies and gobs of red wine, he possesses a to-the-millisecond intuition for exactly when to pull cuts from the stove and the stock pot.

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The Truth About Cats

The Truth About Cats

A feline-named French bistro replaces Queen Village's Dalmatian.

When it was announced last year that Sixth and Bainbridge's beloved dalmatian mural would be painted over for yet anoth...

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