The Sewickley Café

Summary


At least we weren't missing out on the menu, which is the same inside and out. Sewickley Café describes its offerings as "American Continental," an apt description for a blend of the familiar - crab cakes, steak salad, sesame-crusted ahi - and the elevated, but still familiar: lamb chops, chicken saltimbocca, steak frites. It's a long menu, which can suggest concerns about the kitchen's ability to handle it all, but it holds together as mostly American and Italian, updated with a few Asian inflections.

An entrée of lemon-garlic lamb chops topped with fresh mozzarella and diced tomatoes immediately claimed Angelique's attention, only to be rivaled by the temptation of chicken with pears and brie. The choice seemed impossible until Angelique tore herself away from the entrée list long enough to realize that she could satisfy her lamb-chop jones with an appetizer. A trio of grilled lamb chops in pomegranate glaze (mint demi-glace is also an option) could only be described as out of this world, a phrase we do not use lightly. While the meat was sliced only as thick as the bone, its exterior was flavorfully charred while the interior remained pink, tender and mild. The pomegranate glaze, while tasty, was superfluous on such fine chops. Lamb chops, especially such thin ones, can be difficult to cook, but Sewickley Café delivered perfection.

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The Sewickley Café

The Sewickley Café

WE'RE NOT BIG on reservations. We find that they're usually only necessary at the hottest restaurants, and besides, there is something about having a deadline for arrival that drains some o...

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