Sexy Bistro

Summary


Coquette, the new French bistro from Sansom Street Oyster House proprietor Cary Neff, is everything a neighborhood spot should be: attractive, lively and friendly with well-prepared, uncomplicated food at reasonable prices. And a liquor license. (Actually it doesn't have the liquor license quite yet; Neff expects it to arrive Oct. 1.)

A salad nicoise involved traditional ingredients: black olives, haricot verts, sliced potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, tuna and tomatoes, plus a fan of Bibb lettuce with an emulsified sherry vinaigrette. It was perfectly pleasant. I might've said the same for a crock of tender artichoke hearts stewed with onion, tomato and strips of ham-had the ham not been ridiculously salty.

Flavorwise, fish fared as well as the meats (with fewer seasoning problems). Plump, firm skate wing sat alongside a salad of summer's last tomatoes and croutons, which became more enjoyable as the croutons soaked up the caper brown butter and softened. Rainbow trout was delicate and fresh, daintily lined with sliced potatoes and haricot verts and lightly dressed in an anchovy-almond sauce.

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Extract


Sexy Bistro

Sexy Bistro

Coquette has the ingredients for citywide success.

There's a terrible affliction people get when a new restaurant opens near their home. Perhaps you've fallen victim to it yourself. Do any of these symptoms sound familia...

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