Extract
Rustic Charms
When I first started out as a restaurant critic, I read a leading New York critic's paragraph-long rhapsody about a "perfect" rendition of fresh spinach sautéed with lemon juice and pine nuts. At the time it struck me as utter hogwash. What could ever be so perfect, difficult, or noteworthy about something so simple? Now, I finally get it: Perfection in a food is so infrequently achieved that when it is it should stop you dead in your tracks so you can marvel and clap.
Of course, there are two ver...See the full content of this document
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