Meat On Main

Seven DaysAugust 18, 2009

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Summary


When a customer requests lids for a couple of to-go containers, a college-aged staffer with funky glasses and a ponytail waggishly offers to release them for a buck each. How did Big Fatty find employees with a sense of humor? [Clay Vagnini] advertised in the paper for "ballsy bussers" and "sassy servers," he says. Then he weeded out applicants who didn't fit the Big Fatty profile. He explains that he wrote back to those who expressed interest in the job "and said something to the effect of 'If you're a frou-frou, dilettante, self-serving, tree-hugger Democrat, this isn't the place for you. I don't want nice - I want fast and sassy.'" Those who responded with enthusiasm got a job. A bunch never wrote back.

A restaurant with a FAQ? Vagnini explains that it's a catalogue of "silly" questions he's been asked at least twice, such as "What's the yellow stuff in the cornbread?" His response? "Corn." Other items from the FAQ: "Can I have a turkey sub?" "No." "How come your BBQ is better than mine?" "Devine [sic] intervention."

This means that at Big Fatty's they do the ribs with a dry rub and top the meaty mounds with a squirt of house-made "wet" BBQ sauce before serving. Those in the know can ask for their ribs "dry," too. "Dry" ribs are tender and nicely spiced. "Wet" ones are also pretty messy. "That's why God created hoses and paper towels," says Vagnini.

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Extract


Meat On Main

At Big Fatty's BBQ on Main Street in Burlington, the servers wear black tees that read, "Be nice to me, I pull your pork." The yellow walls are plastered with saucy notices. "Sarcasm: one of the free services I offer," says one. Another reads, "There will be a $5 charge for whining."

Irreverence reigns at the restaurant that Clay Vagnini and his wife Bethany Lewis opened on March 31. The couple, who also operat...

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