Locker Room Bar & Grill

Summary


[Hines Ward] has declared in interviews that he was looking for more distinctive offerings than most sports bars boast, but when we ate there, the menu was in flux. On one visit, certain dishes were blacked out, while on our next trip the reprinted menu was about half new - without much to distinguish itself from its countless competitors up and down the street. Still, the rest of Hines' commitment to excellence remains in place, with a genuine chef in the kitchen serving up mostly fresh food, rather than the deep-fried frozen stuff that dominates the sports-bar category.

If only her two entrées, a California turkey burger and a turkey-chipotle wrap, had been as satisfying. On restaurant menus around these parts, "California" is usually synonymous with avocadoes, sprouts or both, leading to our disappointment when there was nothing particularly West Coast about the California turkey burger except a substitution of poultry for beef. Though the burger featured deep black grill lines, fresh lettuce and tomato toppings, and a crispy brown-topped bun, it had nothing in particular, flavor-wise, to set it apart from a standard all-beef patty. We knew from our quesadilla order that the Locker Room has avocadoes in its kitchen; a dollop of this rich green fruit would go a long way to dress up this otherwise undistinguished burger, making it more than just a non-red-meat-eater's fallback.

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Locker Room Bar & Grill

Locker Room Bar & Grill

LOCATION:

1825 E. Carson St., South Side. 412-390-1910

HOURS: 11 a.m.-2 a.m., daily

PRICES: Appetizers $6-7; sandwiches and burgers $8-10

FARE: Bar food

ATMOSPHERE: Nice bar and grill with a zillion TVs

LIQUOR: Full bar

SMOKI...

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