I Love Lula's

Summary


To hear Lund talk about chocolate is to hear a fascinating bit of philosophizing. "Chocolate is really about the marriage of chemistry and art," he says. "My grandmother understood the art of it, but not the chemistry of it. She'd say, 'And then you stir the crème until it's done.' 'Well, how long?' 'Until it feels cold.' 'Why do you do it that way?' 'That's just the way we do it.' "

So Lund studied both the art and the science. In 1994 he moved to Salt Lake City and over the next six years learned candymaking from [Lula Lund], who by that time had shuttered Mrs. Lund's Candies and was making chocolates strictly for Christmas and gifts. From her, Lund learned the value of using only fresh, quality ingredients (like 40 percent-fat cream instead of evaporated milk or hydrogenated oil) and refusing to cut corners. Stir longer, cook slower. Roast whole nuts, even if that means they won't last as long in storage. Never freeze anything. He learned the dying art of making handmarks, those dipsy-dos on the tops of filled chocolates that actually identify what's in the center.

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Extract


I Love Lula's

It seemed a sound strategy. Take a small bite, take notes, and live to sample more chocolates. The box of Lula's chocolates that Scott Lund presented me with, however, had me outgunned. His mother, Lula Lund, made candy for 65 years, u...

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