Food for the Holidays; Memories of Old Favorites Inspire New Family Traditions

Pacific SunAugust 06, 2009

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Summary


If using fresh onions: blanch onions for 2 minutes in boiling water, then drain. Rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle. Cut off root end and peel. If using frozen onions: place frozen onions in colander, run cool water over them for several minutes. Drain.

Add the onions. Cover. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Note: If using frozen onions, allow sauce to thicken before adding onions. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are tender and the liquid is reduced to a thick sauce, 5 to 10 minutes.

The recipe that follows uses seasonal ingredients at their prime. It is an informal appetizer or salad course much appreciated in Italy. Here we can use new oil from this year's harvest with crisp winter vegetables. It could be seen as a symbolic dish for Chanukah, the observation of a miracle: a one-day supply of light-giving olive oil left in the Judean temple burned for eight days as Hebrews defied a ruling against their religion, rededicating their place of worship. Many Chanukah foods are fried in oil; this is a refreshing change of pace.

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Food for the Holidays; Memories of Old Favorites Inspire New Family Traditions

The first year I lived in California after years in Manhattan I was confused by Christmas. When we went out to cut a tree there were white stars of narcissus in the bright green grass at an old home site and calla lilies blossomed in the woods nearby. It felt very strange for December. With time I came to love the subtleties of the season here: occasional frost on rooftops, branches from my own redwoo...

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