Harness the fear: big-wave legend Laird Hamilton is not fearless. That's one thing that makes him great.

SuccessNbr. 2009, January 2009

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Harness the fear: big-wave legend Laird Hamilton is not fearless. That's one thing that makes him great.

Imagine JoAnn Hamilton's surprise when lifeguards knocked on her front door in 1969 with news that her son, 5-year-old Laird, had to be rescued after being caught in the current on his surfboard.

JoAnn politely argued it couldn't be Laird. Her son, she said, was asleep in his bedroom.

Bursting through her son's door, she motioned toward the bed. "See, he's right ..." But the bed was empty and the window open.

"A couple of times a week, lifeguards would ...

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