Summary
At ethnic restaurants there's a strange inverse correlation between authenticity and atmosphere. Be it a Mexican taqueria, Korean barbecue pit or Indonesian satay shack, the pervading wisdom is the grimier the better. This is why we dismiss the drop ceilings, the tacky neon, the mismatched silverware. It's why we laugh at the Telemundo game shows even though we have no idea why the contestants are dressed up as giant chickens; why we don't ask for extra napkins, another glass of water, or if the pho is made with or without gelled pig blood. It's why we smile while the hostile servers make us feel like Hostel extras.
The barbecue platter is a fitting intro to the spicy, citrusy, mint-sprinkled cooking of Vietnam, a carousel of crisp, greaseless pork spring rolls, grilled chicken strips, wonderful nem nuong (spiced pork meatballs) dusted with crushed peanuts, bo nuong la (beef-stuffed grape leaves) and tangled rice vermicelli. Cups of iceberg lettuce and rice paper wrappers encourage the university crowd to get their ssam on, flavoring the bundles with piquant quick-pickled carrot and cucumber, fresh mint, fiery crimson nuoc cham and the "house special": sweet-and-sour paste made with nuoc mam.See the full content of this document
Extract
Good Morning, Vietnam
Good Morning, Vietnam
Benny Lai's umami-ism spreads to West Philly.At ethnic restaurants there's a strange inverse correlation between authenticity and atmosphere. Be it a Mexican taqueria, Korean barbecue pit or Indonesian ...See the full content of this document
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