Easy Street

Summary


Easy Street's motto - "Eat well. Drink better" - led us to expect an emphasis on the bar before the kitchen, but we were pleasantly surprised by both the range and quality of the menu. Mexican and even Asian flavors have become pub-grub staples (nachos and satay, for instance). But Easy Street takes it to another level with a pork-belly sandwich and yellow-fin tuna tacos that straddle the Latin-Asian flavor divide. Less exotic fare is treated well, too: Pastrami is made in house, and the braised-beef sandwich features arugula, pickled onions and cambozola cheese, a cross between pungent camembert and tangy gorgonzola.

The promise of harissa mayonnaise, flavored with the North African red chili paste, drew us to Easy Street's version of the ubiquitous crab-cake sandwich. Unfortunately, it was a disappointment. While it duly colored the mayonnaise a dark pink, the harissa made a minimal impression on the palate, and the crab cake itself, devoid of jumbo lumps and made with too much filler, had a fishy flavor that didn't belong. Furthermore, neither lettuce nor tomato were served alongside, although even the best crab cake benefits from their fresh, bright flavors.

Angélique found the aforementioned tuna tacos an irresistible innovation. Chopped yellow-fin tuna sashimi was tossed in spicy sour cream with avocado, onion and cilantro. Tucked into crunchy taco shells, the combination of flavors and textures was both rich and bright, supple and crisp. An accompanying Thai noodle salad, lightly flavored with ginger, paled in comparison to the bold tastes and textures of the taco, an ingenious marriage of sushi and the traditional fish taco.

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Easy Street

Easy Street

GRANT STREET IS no Easy Street, as Angélique - a veteran of Pittsburgh city government - can attest. All the more reason a good watering hole is needed there, preferably one that also serves decent food to the lunch-hour crowd and appe...

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