Dem Bones

Seven DaysOctober 26, 2010

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Summary


Most bowls are also filled with a nest of rice noodles. Some, such as the chicken-broth, beef-meatball and porkfilled hu tieu bo vien, include yellow egg noodles, too. Before each bowl leaves the kitchen, Hong showers it in green - scallions and cilantro enhance the flavor of the soup as they mix with the broth. A handful of fried onions gives a hint of sweetness and crunchy texture.

Many chefs sing the praises of simplicity and focus on using just a few ingrethents per dish. Pho doesn't benefit from that approach. While the smooth, golden broth gets its slightly musky odor from beef, it turns out to be more complex. A second sniff is dominated by the astringent aroma of cilantro. The first taste is sweet and comforting, but grows into an intricate web of tastes as the anise and cinnamon bloom on the palate. Cloves, cardamom and coriander blend in for a hint of subcontinental warmth. The marbled meat has a distinctive crunch as teeth tear flesh. A squeeze of lime and a hint of peppery Sriracha (Thai hot sauce) bring acid and heat.

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Dem Bones

DEM BONES

Discovering the secret of Pho Hong's rich broth

The staff of Pho Hong in Burlington have agreed to take a reporter through the steps of making their famous noodle soup. Bu...

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