Catching the New Wave; with the Return of Its Star Chef, the Kitchen Is Back in Shape.

Summary

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The menu has a bar side and a serious side. Highlights from the latter include braised rabbit over pappardelle, topped with shaved locatelli. It's a dish that makes a bunny lover forget it's Flopsy's savory body lying in tender tomato and wine-laced shreds atop a bed of al dente noodles.

The chicken cheesesteak is redemption for what's normally a spineless sandwich. Prepared like coq au vin, [Ben]'s bird is redolent of white wine, softened into shreds, mixed with just a bit of Brie, and served open-faced. Philadel-phians: Don't accept anything less.

Arancini aren't the exact replicas of the Italian street food, because their tomato filling is outside instead of in. Instead these saffron risotto balls come stuffed with fresh mozzarella and breaded in panko. They may look like chicken croquettes, but they're the tastiest little orbs you ever did burn your tongue on. A pair of them wades in a bright and chunky pool of basil-chocked marinara.

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Extract

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Catching the New Wave; with the Return of Its Star Chef, the Kitchen Is Back in Shape.

Ben is back. What a difference that makes.

The chef (last name: McNamara) worked at the New Wave Cafe from 2000 to 2003. Then he left for a bigger bar.

With him, Ben took his famous chipotle-spiced ...

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