Bayleaf Indian Cuisine

Summary


One item we'd never seen before was chicken Manchurian. As the name suggests, it's an Indian take on a Chinese preparation, and the dish did bear a superficial resemblance to General Tso's chicken. But this kind of translation is usually heavily accented in the home tongue, and Bayleaf 's chicken was simultaneously spicier and richer in its native flavor than the poultry in the Chinese dishes we're used to. Alas, the bird itself - fried to a crisp beneath the thick, dark sauce - was for the most part dried out and tough.

From the southern Indian menu, we also ordered a masala dosai, described as a "rice crepe." We've tried these elsewhere and thought we knew what we were getting, but Bayleaf surpassed our expectations. This dosai was almost cracker-crisp, yet delicate as the crust on crème brulee. The fermented rice batter lent an earthy flavor, while the filling of masala-spiced mashed potato and onion gave the crepe body without dominating either its flavor or its texture. Alas, the sambar, a traditionally accompanying stew of lentils, herbs and spices, did not do this superb creation justice - it was watery and bland.

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Bayleaf Indian Cuisine

Bayleaf Indian Cuisine

LOCATION: 416 Semple St., Oakland. 412-605-0400

HOURS: Tue.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

PRICES: Appetizers $3.50-8.50; entrees $8-12

FARE: Northern and Southern Indian

ATMOSPHERE: Bollywood diner

LIQUOR: BYOB

**½...

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